Basic maintenance on a 2013 Evoque?
Good day everyone!
Just purchased my very first, 'luxury' used vehicle. 2013 Evoque PP just a week ago with extended warranty. It's got 57k Miles on it.
I've searched around on this forum for clear answers and tips. While I got some, other areas I didn't really understand.
Is it frowned upon to change your own oil and if it isn't an issue, how frequent? Do I REALLY need anything special to change the oil? I've always used Mobile1 fully synthetic on all maint for my car(s).
I'm trying to understand why the $250 price tag on an oil change at the LR Dealership.
What about transmission oil changes/flushes? Is it a flush or change?
I ask cause the transmission feels a bit on the rough side, as if the oil hasn't been changed or it could be something else which I am prepared to take it to LR For diagnostics.
Is there any maintenance I can do myself like differential, brakes, suspension, and more? My previous vehicle still run very well because I've maintained it very well in the last 7 years and I will do exactly the same to this Evoque.
08-23-2019 02:38 PM
Welcome to the forum!
Did you receive all of the owner's manuals with your Evoque. If you did, there should be a booklet titled "Passport to Service". This booklet has all of the maintenance items to be done at mileage/year intervals. Oil changes on a MY2013, same year as our Evoque, is at 10,000 miles. JLR recommends using CASTROL full synthetic, but Mobil 1 certainly is a good choice. Once we were out of warranty I started to change my own oil. Not hard, but you have to remove the engine under tray to get at the oil pan drain plug and the oil filter. Oil filter is a pain, as the lower radiator hose passes directly under the filter.
If you have the Passport to Service booklet, you will see there are quite a few things that are listed to "check" at a scheduled service. That all adds up at their labor rate. When I took our Evoque in for its oil change, I told them to change the oil and filter, and only check those things that were included with the oil change price. I paid $146 for the dealer oil changes.
The transmission is filled with what JLR say is a life time oil. Take that for what it's worth.
No big deal to change brake pads, EXCEPT for the rear. There is a procedure to put the Electronic Park Brake into service mode. If you don't do this, you will be in a lot of trouble!
I purchased my 2015 in 2017 with about 38k miles and I always change my own oil. The owners manual for the 2015 specifies "SAE 5W-30 engine oil meeting specification WSS-M2C913-C". The problem is that I am fairly certain that oil in USA do not meet that specific standard. So technically the only way to get oil that meets that standard is to buy the Land Rover oil which is called "Castrol Professional". However the 2.0L Ecoboost is an engine made by Ford. I looked in the Ford owner's manual for the 2.0L Ecoboost Escape and it says SAE 5W-30 oil meeting specification WSS-M2C946-A. Many oils on the shelf in the USA meet that standard. Also on the Evoque it says "Castrol oil recommended" or something like that. So I use Castrol Edge Extended Performance Full Synthetic 5W-30 (meets WSS-M2C946-A) and the Mobil 1 M102A filter. I had a turbo fail just outside of warranty and LR starts asking about the service you have had at the dealer before they offer any help. However the dealer told me that had a car with only 36k miles that had been maintained at the dealer and the turbo failed and they only offered 20% off. So help from them post warranty is pretty much non-existent. But ultimately you need to check the terms of your extended warranty. I didn't get an extended warranty because I was under the impression that they required all maintenance to be performed at the dealer or at least by a licensed mechanic.
The oil change is fairly simple. The only issue is that pressurized air coming from the turbo to the charge air cooler (some would say intercooler) runs right underneath it and it is almost impossible to get it out of the way. I have tried multiple things I usually just use one of my flexible filters or wrap some foil around the hose so less of a mess is made.
The brakes are very easy, just make sure you follow the simple procedure to release the electronic parking brake before doing the rear.
The only other thing I would is replace the haldex unit filter and oil. I think yours is a haldex 4 and it needs the oil and filter replaced. Apparently things get gunked up and the filter clogs and then it can cause the unit to fail . In the Haldex 5 there is no filter. Land Rover claimed this doesn't have to be changed, but Volvo and many others use the exact same Haldex unit and they require fluid/filter replacement every 30,000 miles or something along those lines. I thought my 2015 had the Haldex 5, but apparently starting in 2014 all or maybe many of them in the USA had the "active driveline" so it was made by GKN, not haldex. It takes a different fluid, but you need the LR diagnostic equipment or equivalent to bleed to system after a refill.
For my 2015 (9 speed transmission) the "Passport to Service" says to "change" the transmission fluid every 10 years. I checked in the 2013 "Passport to Service" and it says the same thing.
Last edited by lemmy999; 09-04-2019 at 07:43 AM.
Lemmy999, You are 100% correct about changing the transmission fluid every 10 years. I guess I was thinking about my BMW. Thanks for the correction
The transmissions on the 13s aren't designed to be refilled as stupid as it sounds. They don't have pans to drop because it was more or less designed for a front wheel drive - and the rear wheel drive was designed to work with it. AT AWF21 -Transmission Problem is that the whole unit holds 12qt and you'll only be able to take out ~ 4q at a time. It's ~ $94 per qt for the fluid. You'll have to do this 3 or 4 times to get a true flush.
Originally Posted by Rsquared
Anyway- that doesn't mean it's not possible. The proper way to do it would be to drain and remove the intermediate shaft(replacing this as manual suggests when removed) in order to fill the case. Not hard but expensive looking at around $700-$800 for the dealer to do. Or 2 drain and pressure fill from the bottom, which is the best way imo. I have a drain valves on the transmission and oil pan, I'll get you the threading size tomorrow. From a cost analysis, it may not make sense to change it and just replace the transmission when it goes, the cost will be almost the same.
As for the harsh transmission, it's an adaptable transmission; meaning it learns how you drive. The dealer has a program that will reset the habits it learned, change the rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid first and reset. That should fix it.
Last edited by aulus; 09-02-2019 at 01:25 AM.
Originally Posted by aulus
Thanks for the advice! I greatly appreciate it. If the transmission is adaptive, then wow whoever had the vehicle before must have driven it hard. I'm not much of a pedal pounder but it does drive a a little smoother when pounding the gas then brake pedals.
I've read that if your battery dies and/or is replaced, the transmission tool of the Adaptive Transmission will Re-learn the new driving.