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Tried researching this issue and found all the solutions below. Was hoping to narrow down the most likely cause so I can attempt to price out parts and get a verbal quote on how much the repair will cost before bringing it in anywhere. Hoping the pictures can help but please excuse my non-mechanic ignorance. Coolant is dropping below minimum every 3 days or so, coolant leak puddle mainly showing up under drivers side but seeing some dripping underneath on both sides. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Solutions found:
Found the expansion tank cap stuck so tight in the expansion bottle that the top of the cap separated from the plug portion requiring its removal by vice grips. New cap (Gates).
Then I replace the cap again (this time with genuine Rover) and voila fixed. She is holding her water. I suspect it was the interface between the expansion bottle and the cap It could not hold the maximum press (21 PSI) and heat reach at shut down after long slow hot drives. It was not found at the shop because the cap and the bottle are checked separately and not together in their operational positions. The bottle and cap cost less then $100.
The cause of this loss of coolant was the interface between the bottle and the pressure cap. Both pressure checked just fine but they would not seal to each other. New cap and bottle and all fixed!
Nope this is the twist connectors for the heater hose. It was a bitch to get out, and a new one is on the way.
There is a service Bulletin for the 2012 Evoque regarding the "Core Plugs" in the head (not a bad fix is seems). Here is a portion from All Data (they have all the bulletins!)
12 FEB 2013
SECTION: 303-01A/B
Continual Unexplained Low Coolant
Update on my evoque, the coolant return pipe has popped off, located at the top of the coolant tank reservoir.
The pipe connection won't secure it back in place so a new pipe is in order according to the mechanic.
If you look below your wiper on the passenger side on the cowl there is a flap you can remove. Take a flash light and look inside to the right and make sure your car is hot and running. See if you see any water from your heater lines dripping down.
BTW if it's not the hose it's definitely the water pump, 500$+ fix.
Turns out this is the drain tube for the A/C and also if your heater core gets a leak it will also come through this drain
I have discovered a coolant leak where the hose fittings attach to the heater core at the rear of the engine bay under the wiper cowl area.
Try to tighten the clamps first
I removed the wiper cowl and found out that one of the hoses was leaking at the fitting too.
My issue turned out to be the seal between the cap and the tank. Neither pressure test (cap or system) would be able to find it. When the car was hot after a run and sat the pressure would overwhelm the poor seal of the cap to bottle and overflow through the relief tube which on the 2012 is integral with the bottle!!! Once I replaced both the cap and bottle all was fixed!
Yes on my 2012 in spewed coolant right below the tank. I thought the bottle was cracked. I had been fighting the car throwing up coolant at times usually when it had been run hard (freeway) and shut off or just after shut down from a long drive in slow city traffic. It would pass the cap test and it would pass the system pressure test just fine. Driving me nuts and mechanics I took it to. On a pure guess, I ordered the cap and bottle and hot damn fixed! Because the cap and bottle each passed their tests no one thought to check how they worked together. Somehow where they sealed would be overwhelmed only when the pressure and temp peaked right after shut down after a hot run. It was a really head scratcher and then it wasn't. I really hope your issue is as simple to fix as my was after I finally figured it out.
Check ur top coolant hose going into the radiator, the small pressure release valve on the middle of the hose might be loose.
There have been some Evoque coolant reservoirs that leak from a blanking cap near the bottom of the reservoir. The cap has a hose fitted to it on right hand drive cars. Another leak has been a threaded core plug in the cylinder head beween the camshafts. There is a run of engines where the plug has been fitted without thread sealer AND has not been torqued sufficiently. If your Evoque is losing coolant and you can't find it, it is probably leaking into the engine itself. Get it into your service department as soon as possible.
Took my car to get the coolant issue looked at - here's what the report said afterwards:
"Found that coolant level low at time of arrival. Pressure checked cooling system 21PSI for 20 mins. Found no external coolant leaks and hold pressure at this time. Removed cam cover to access cylinder core plug for leakage and found residual coolant around plug. Removed plugs and reinstalled with #243 locktite and retorqued to 75NM. Removed both plugs (#1, 42. 7MN) and installed #243 locktite. Reinstalled both plugs to 75NM. No problems found."
My dealer finally acknowledged this issue and was able to resolve it, they had to keep the car for a couple of days for the fix. Land Rover is aware of this issue and there is a SA related to the problem. They also had to replace the oil and filter even though I just had the first service done in early January because of possible leaks into the engine.
there is a service bulletin on this problem, apparently coolant is leaking into engine through bypass tubes and the seals are faulty and leaking, a fix which includes taking off the intake manifolds and replacing faulty seals and hopefully an oil change, they said its about a 5 hour job so they are providing me a car, they said they have been topping off alot of coolants and finally figured out there was a problem.
they discovered it was leaking onto the chassis via hose to the ac heating line when system was pressurized
First things first, remove the whole battery and the battery tray from the engine bay. This is needed to gain access to the heater hose connectors near the back of the engine.

View attachment 4178 Battery and battery tray removed. Heater hose connectors are circled.

Next, go ahead and remove the wiper blades and the cowl to expose the heater hoses and ECM near the firewall. This is where the fun begins. You have to remove the ECM in order to have enough room to disconnect those 2 hose connectors. You don't have to remove the ECM from the bracket. Just remove the whole ECM/bracket assembly all together. DO NOT REMOVE the ECM from the ECM bracket. Disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses from the ECM and next remove those 2 nuts that hold the ECM bracket to the firewall. If I remember correctly they're 10mm and it's not a lot of room to work with. Luckily, I had a flex ratchet set that came in handy but it's still a pain. In the process of reinstalling those nuts after removal I was only able to get one of the 2 nuts back on because of the tight space.

View attachment 4180 That's the ECM bracket location exposing the studs after ECM and bracket removal.

View attachment 4182 You can see one of the heater core connectors here in red.

Now, the second hardest part of this repair is removing the hose connectors from the heater core itself. After googling and finding the PDF manual to locking and unlocking those twist connectors they're still not just going to slide easily. Instructions about those connectors are on page 34 -----> https://www.normagroup.com/norma.ns...f/$file/EJT_Cooling_System_Catalogue_2013.pdf Turn the twist connectors to the left (counter clockwise) to unlock them. I used a pair of pliers to get a good grip on the hoses and worked them back off the heater core pipes. Be careful not to grip those connectors too hard as to dent those heater core pipes. Also, go ahead and remove the easier heater hose connectors near the back of the engine if you haven't already done so when removing the battery and battery tray. You simply pry those ring fittings up using a flat head screw driver to loosen them and work them off.

View attachment 4184 Old and new heater hoses.

Now, reverse the steps to complete the repair. I went ahead and did a drain, flush and fill the next day after making sure there were no leaks after about 50 miles of highway driving. I used the Zerex Orange 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant to fill and top off.

Heater Hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Antifreeze/Coolant https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ntifreeze/888374/6283972?q=zerex+orange&pos=0
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