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I carried my car to the shop because of lack of power. If you press the accelerator hard, rpm goes between 4000-5000 rpm and JC at doesn’t accelerate quickly at all. The car drives fine as long as you don’t need to accelerate quickly. The shop stated that the hose had come off the turbo and that it also had a knock sensor bad. They fixed these 2 things and the turbocharger is still not putting out any power. They stated I needed a new turbocharger. Price was astronomical. My question is, how much trouble is it to change out the turbo and could we be dealing with another issue?
 

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I carried my car to the shop because of lack of power. If you press the accelerator hard, rpm goes between 4000-5000 rpm and JC at doesn’t accelerate quickly at all. The car drives fine as long as you don’t need to accelerate quickly. The shop stated that the hose had come off the turbo and that it also had a knock sensor bad. They fixed these 2 things and the turbocharger is still not putting out any power. They stated I needed a new turbocharger. Price was astronomical. My question is, how much trouble is it to change out the turbo and could we be dealing with another issue?

Almost ALL of the turbos on the 2.0L gasoline engines fail. My 2015 turbo failed last year at 51,000 miles. They seem to fail between 40,000-80,000 miles. How many miles is on yours? The turbos usually fail in one of the two ways. One is that the exhaust manifold part cracks up near where it connects to the exhaust ports of the engine. You will get reduced power, a check engine light (low boost) and usually smell exhaust fumes in the cabin. The other way is an internal crack in the exhaust manifold in the area where the turbo exhaust turbine wheel is. You will get no smell, but still get the reduced power and check engine light. You will also get a noise that I assume is the turbine wheel rubbing up against the loose part of the manifold. Here is the sound mine made:


I replaced mine with an aftermarket model that has a cast iron manifold (which should last longer). This place has a max of 1 video link per post, so in the next post will be a video with a guy I got it from and him describing the failure I had.


I think they just buy the manifold from China and attach it to a turbo. You have to move your own waste gate actuator over and adjust it properly (I used a mityvac). Overall I guess I was happy with the turbo, but I had a few small issues that I was able to work out. Turbo Parts Canada claim the turbo is new or remanufactured, but when it arrived the turbo housing seems to be generic (no Borg Warner tag). I called about this and he said the cartridge part (the turbine wheel and bearing) is new and made in the UK. Maybe it is true, or maybe it is all straight from China. But either way it has worked well for 6 months and 5k miles. There are several other places that sell something similar with the cast iron manifold for a bit cheaper. I paid $1000 for the turbo and maybe $200+ in parts form LR (exhaust manifold gasket, new exhaust manifold nuts and washers, oil and water line gaskets, etc) and then I replaced it myself. I think LR wants about $4000 US for the job.

The manual says to remove the entire front subframe, but thankfully someone on here told me you can get to it form behind the subframe. So I got it on my lift and removed the driveshaft and the exhaust and also both front wheels and the splash guards. A few of the bolts were difficult but it was doable. Another guy that used to be on here (from Canada) gave me a call and gave me lots of very helpful advice. He had gotten the Turbo Parts Canada turbo and had it installed by a local mechanic for about $500 I think. However he had watched him do it and had lots of tips.

As far as it being another issue, it could be the waste gate stuck open (this is part of the turbo) or also could be the hose that goes from the output of the turbo to the charge air cooler (some call it an intercooler) could be split or the charge air cooler could have a hole in it. Before I started the turbo removal I remove the right tire and splash guard and pulled the hose off of the turbo output. I put in a big piece of PVC and clamped it in the tube and had a fitting on it to connect a hand pump. I then took the hose off from the output of the charge air cooler and plugged it with a big piece of PVC. I then pressurized it to 15psi and let it sit for a while to see if it had a leak. That confirmed that post turbo everything was fine.
 

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It sure isn't fun. I had a lift which helps quite a bit. But I had to do it all by myself and lowering the exhaust and the 3 piece driveshaft without damaging the joints was rather difficult.
 
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