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We seem to have two separate issue going on here. Turbo failure and manifold cracking. Turbo failure in my case had all the symptoms of a bearing failure, as I did not get the opportunity to carry out a failure analysis, that is based on my experience of working with turbocharged engines for many years. I did not have any manifold cracking.
The manifold cracking is not likey related to or the cause of the turbo failure. The manifold used is a pressed steel type and cheap and will fail due to heat cycle related fatigue it’s just a matter of time. You should notice a lack of power with a cracked exhaust manifold, as well as some noise under acceleration, as you are losing exhaust pressure due to the leakage and it is exhaust gas flow that drives the turbo. It may be difficult to notice due to the transmission either downshifting of holding a lower gear to compensate.
Whatever failure you experience it is still a crock and is the result of some cost exercise that we ultimately end up paying for
 

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Discussion Starter #23
UPDATE:

Well I ended up buying the part online.. a Borg Warner Tuebo exhaust manifold. Found a mechanic in town that has done this repair before. I dropped off Rover in the morning, and picked her up fixed in the late afternoon. All said, cost about $2300.00.

That said, the unit is actually two pieces. The turbo is clamped on to the manifold.. so one could potentially buy turbo / and or exhaust manifold part separate. I have my previous Turbo that is in perfect condition clamped/ attached to the exhaust manifold as it came on the Suv in my basement. The turbo is in excellent condition, and the manifold has 2 tiny cracks on it right at the seam. In hindsight I should have just simply had a welder make a tiny simple weld or repair with JD weld paste. Would have done the trick. If anyone else has this issue, I'll sell mine to you.. make the simple repair and away you go. Save you a ton of money and



I'm glad you got yours fixed! So do you think oem manifold is made by Borg Warnger too or just the one you purchased? If I had problems I was thinking of getting this ($1600) (It looks to be identical to the OEM manifold) :

https://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/40-31553_BW

If you don't mind, can you tell us how many hours of labor your mechanic charged for the job?

Sorry.. just saw this reply.. he charged me $575 in labor. Think it's a 5.5 hour job.

Again, if anyone needs a gently used turbo/manifold setup. Let me know. Save you a ton of money. And yes the stock and replacement are both Borg Warner
 

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We seem to have two separate issue going on here. Turbo failure and manifold cracking. Turbo failure in my case had all the symptoms of a bearing failure, as I did not get the opportunity to carry out a failure analysis, that is based on my experience of working with turbocharged engines for many years. I did not have any manifold cracking.
The manifold cracking is not likey related to or the cause of the turbo failure. The manifold used is a pressed steel type and cheap and will fail due to heat cycle related fatigue it’s just a matter of time. You should notice a lack of power with a cracked exhaust manifold, as well as some noise under acceleration, as you are losing exhaust pressure due to the leakage and it is exhaust gas flow that drives the turbo. It may be difficult to notice due to the transmission either downshifting of holding a lower gear to compensate.
Whatever failure you experience it is still a crock and is the result of some cost exercise that we ultimately end up paying for

I fell like I may be headed toward a turbo failure since I hear what seems to be bearing noise from the turbo.

I would like to put the cast iron manifold on when my manifold breaks, but it is sourced from some unknown source in China and I just don't trust it to be a quality made product or well designed for flow.
 

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first thing you notice with the bearings going it sounds like someone humming to the tune on the radio but not very good at it. Very faint in the background and more noticeable as you accelerate, next will be the transmission downshift frequently and your fuel mileage decreasing.
find you nearest Borg Warner dealer and see what they have to offer. If you can have the car of the road for a couple of days they can rebuild the unit for far less than the robbers at Land Rover will charge.
 

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first thing you notice with the bearings going it sounds like someone humming to the tune on the radio but not very good at it. Very faint in the background and more noticeable as you accelerate, next will be the transmission downshift frequently and your fuel mileage decreasing.
find you nearest Borg Warner dealer and see what they have to offer. If you can have the car of the road for a couple of days they can rebuild the unit for far less than the robbers at Land Rover will charge.
Mine sounds a bit like a dentist drill but very faint. I mainly hear it about 2000 RPM. Above that the road noise and other engine noise drowns it out.

How much do you think a rebuild would be? A new LR manifold/turbo is about $2100 to $2500 I think. A Ford Escape manifold/turbo is just about $500-$700 I think. Of course the manifold won't work on the Evoque, but I am pretty sure the turbo is the same. All of the dealers/distributors in my state are diesel shops, but I assume they would rebuild any turbo.
 

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A turbo is a turbo. Providing they can identify the unit it should not present any problem. Cost depends on the parts needed if it is just bearings and seals that would not be expensive. The unit from a Escape could have a different compressor wheel and turbine from the unit used in a LR the end housings could also be different. Different torque profiles are managed by these latter items.
A rebuild is inverably cheaper than new. They can usually give you a price for a rebearing and reseal upfront before starting the job.
 

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I own a 2013 pure plus with 47k miles on it... When I start the car and switch on the heater I can smell gas/exhaust for about a minute before it goes away. Could my issue be the same as stated here ?
Quick update: I ended up selling the damn thing.. I also had a burnt out left indicator. When dealership tried to replace, they claimed the bulb was good but one of the pins of the connector which connects the adapter to the headlight housing was loose and not making a good connection. To address it they'll have to replace the entire left headlight housing for about $1200 parts + labor.... If I had a miniature solder gun I could have done it in 5 minutes !!...

With the exhaust fumes still coming in everytime i operate the heater and having lost some horsepower, I decided to just sell the damn car and save myself trouble in the future...

I ended up trading it in for a fully loaded Nissan Murano AWD with twice the number of tech features and 7 years service and maintenance ...
 

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2012 Pure Plus. 86,400. Exhaust in the cabin only at cold start up. Cracked exhaust manifold; however, at the engine flange at the end pipe, not near the turbo. If I had figured it out last year my extended warranty would have covered it. About $4,000! Ouch.
 

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2012 Pure Plus. 86,400. Exhaust in the cabin only at cold start up. Cracked exhaust manifold; however, at the engine flange at the end pipe, not near the turbo. If I had figured it out last year my extended warranty would have covered it. About $4,000! Ouch.
yeah I thought that was the most common place for them to break. It sucks because they seem to all break between 50k and 90k miles. There is an aftermarket cast exhaust manifold that you can get from ebay or a place in Canada, but I think it is made by some company in China. I have no idea how good it is, but it would likely never break.


UPDATE: Well my turbo may have failed today at 52k miles. I do not get the exhaust smell, but I am getting an odd/louder noise and I have little power and I have checked with an OBDII reader and I am making no boost. I'm not going to waste money on the LR one and have it fail again in 50k miles. So I guess I will try the one from Canada and replace it myself. It is about $1k. I guess LR never redesigned the part because it typically makes it past 50k miles so they make more money off of replacing them.

 

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You don, need to remove the sub frame it will come out with it in place from the underneath
Quiltrx, it looks like my turbo may have failed suddenly (no boost) so I will be needing to remove my turbo. I have been under mine a few times looking at the turbo and for the life of me I don't see how I will be able to get the turbo out without removing that sub frame. Do you have any hints or tips that might help? Would I need to take it off then separate the two halves (turbo and manifold) then bring them out separately? I am assuming you bring them out the back side of the sub frame? Thanks for any help, I really don't want to remove the sub frame.
 

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The exhaust manifold is attached to the turbo and they are sold together as one unit. So if the exhaust manifold cracks you seem to have 3 options. 1) replace the entire turbo/manifold unit 2) take them off and get a cast manifold from some place like Turbo Parts Canada, attach it to your turbo and reinstall 3) try to get someone to weld your cracked manifold.

On mine either the turbo bearing is bad, or it has an internal crack in the exhaust manifold that is allowing parts of the manifold to come in contact with the turbine wheel so I think both will need replacing or repair.

I wouldn't say they all fail before 90k miles, but there are quite a few that do. If you notice exhaust smells or start to hear a slight noise when the turbo spools up (mine was like a dentist drill but very quiet) then you probably have this problem or it will be coming soon.
 

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I'm curious as to model year. Is the turbo and exhuast manifold the same on all years 2012-2017?
I have a 2013 RR Evoque. The Turbo or Manifold has a crack in it, Land Rover is charging $4800 to repair. I have a Red Shield warranty that covers the Turbo. However, they will not pay because they say they only cover the lubricated parts and the housing of the Turbo. is the manifold in the housing? Anyone else have this problem?
 

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I have a 2013 RR Evoque. The Turbo or Manifold has a crack in it, Land Rover is charging $4800 to repair. I have a Red Shield warranty that covers the Turbo. However, they will not pay because they say they only cover the lubricated parts and the housing of the Turbo. is the manifold in the housing? Anyone else have this problem?

I have read on here where aftermarket warranties do not cover the turbo/manifold because they claim it is part of the exhaust system. But I imagine each warranty is different. Land Rover do not sell the turbo and manifold separately. But the manifold and turbo is joined by a clamp and one bolt. I have no idea why they do not sell them separately. But you would think you could use the fact to convince them to pay. Look back on the 2nd post of this thread and you will see a video of a guy talking about this problem. You will see how the turbo fits to the manifold. Land Rover quoted me $4000 to do the job. I did it myself for just over $1000, but it isn't a trivial job.
 

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I have read on here where aftermarket warranties do not cover the turbo/manifold because they claim it is part of the exhaust system. But I imagine each warranty is different. Land Rover do not sell the turbo and manifold separately. But the manifold and turbo is joined by a clamp and one bolt. I have no idea why they do not sell them separately. But you would think you could use the fact to convince them to pay. Look back on the 2nd post of this thread and you will see a video of a guy talking about this problem. You will see how the turbo fits to the manifold. Land Rover quoted me $4000 to do the job. I did it myself for just over $1000, but it isn't a trivial job.
SUCKS! I have been on the phone with Red Shield and Land Rover consistently for a few days now,RS says they will cover it only if the lubricated parts of the turbo caused the crack in the manifold. Land Rover tells me to fight Red Shield on that decision because it is all the same part. But Red Shield denied the claim.
 

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Get something in writing from LR & forward it to RS. If they still deny the claim, tell them you want their decision in writing with their reasons so that you can take it further.
 
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