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this is a really good explanation. Well done sir. Do you mind share the attachments to my mail [email protected] thanks a bunch!
Not sure why I can’t see any of your attachments but if you have them still available and could send them my way it would be a huge help! [email protected]Hello and thanks for the reply. I went ahead and tackled this repair blindly back on 1/11/2020 because there was no YouTube how to video made or anything else for that instance. I've been meaning to do a step by step video but I didn't really take a whole lot of pictures or video. Anyway, it's a fairly easy job but having the right tools is a plus. First things first, remove the whole battery and the battery tray from the engine bay. This is needed to gain access to the heater hose connectors near the back of the engine.
View attachment 4178 Battery and battery tray removed. Heater hose connectors are circled.
Next, go ahead and remove the wiper blades and the cowl to expose the heater hoses and ECM near the firewall. This is where the fun begins. You have to remove the ECM in order to have enough room to disconnect those 2 hose connectors. You don't have to remove the ECM from the bracket. Just remove the whole ECM/bracket assembly all together. DO NOT REMOVE the ECM from the ECM bracket. Disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses from the ECM and next remove those 2 nuts that hold the ECM bracket to the firewall. If I remember correctly they're 10mm and it's not a lot of room to work with. Luckily, I had a flex ratchet set that came in handy but it's still a pain. In the process of reinstalling those nuts after removal I was only able to get one of the 2 nuts back on because of the tight space.
View attachment 4180 That's the ECM bracket location exposing the studs after ECM and bracket removal.
View attachment 4182 You can see one of the heater core connectors here in red.
Now, the second hardest part of this repair is removing the hose connectors from the heater core itself. After googling and finding the PDF manual to locking and unlocking those twist connectors they're still not just going to slide easily. Instructions about those connectors are on page 34 -----> https://www.normagroup.com/norma.ns...f/$file/EJT_Cooling_System_Catalogue_2013.pdf Turn the twist connectors to the left (counter clockwise) to unlock them. I used a pair of pliers to get a good grip on the hoses and worked them back off the heater core pipes. Be careful not to grip those connectors too hard as to dent those heater core pipes. Also, go ahead and remove the easier heater hose connectors near the back of the engine if you haven't already done so when removing the battery and battery tray. You simply pry those ring fittings up using a flat head screw driver to loosen them and work them off.
View attachment 4184 Old and new heater hoses.
Now, reverse the steps to complete the repair. I went ahead and did a drain, flush and fill the next day after making sure there were no leaks after about 50 miles of highway driving. I used the Zerex Orange 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant to fill and top off.
Heater Hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-HEATER-WATER-HOSE-LR2-RANGE-EVOQUE-LR019276-OEM/182874186699?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Antifreeze/Coolant https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ntifreeze/888374/6283972?q=zerex+orange&pos=0
can someone please email the photos to me as well? Thanks much. [email protected]Hello and thanks for the reply. I went ahead and tackled this repair blindly back on 1/11/2020 because there was no YouTube how to video made or anything else for that instance. I've been meaning to do a step by step video but I didn't really take a whole lot of pictures or video. Anyway, it's a fairly easy job but having the right tools is a plus. First things first, remove the whole battery and the battery tray from the engine bay. This is needed to gain access to the heater hose connectors near the back of the engine.
View attachment 4178 Battery and battery tray removed. Heater hose connectors are circled.
Next, go ahead and remove the wiper blades and the cowl to expose the heater hoses and ECM near the firewall. This is where the fun begins. You have to remove the ECM in order to have enough room to disconnect those 2 hose connectors. You don't have to remove the ECM from the bracket. Just remove the whole ECM/bracket assembly all together. DO NOT REMOVE the ECM from the ECM bracket. Disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses from the ECM and next remove those 2 nuts that hold the ECM bracket to the firewall. If I remember correctly they're 10mm and it's not a lot of room to work with. Luckily, I had a flex ratchet set that came in handy but it's still a pain. In the process of reinstalling those nuts after removal I was only able to get one of the 2 nuts back on because of the tight space.
View attachment 4180 That's the ECM bracket location exposing the studs after ECM and bracket removal.
View attachment 4182 You can see one of the heater core connectors here in red.
Now, the second hardest part of this repair is removing the hose connectors from the heater core itself. After googling and finding the PDF manual to locking and unlocking those twist connectors they're still not just going to slide easily. Instructions about those connectors are on page 34 -----> https://www.normagroup.com/norma.ns...f/$file/EJT_Cooling_System_Catalogue_2013.pdf Turn the twist connectors to the left (counter clockwise) to unlock them. I used a pair of pliers to get a good grip on the hoses and worked them back off the heater core pipes. Be careful not to grip those connectors too hard as to dent those heater core pipes. Also, go ahead and remove the easier heater hose connectors near the back of the engine if you haven't already done so when removing the battery and battery tray. You simply pry those ring fittings up using a flat head screw driver to loosen them and work them off.
View attachment 4184 Old and new heater hoses.
Now, reverse the steps to complete the repair. I went ahead and did a drain, flush and fill the next day after making sure there were no leaks after about 50 miles of highway driving. I used the Zerex Orange 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant to fill and top off.
Heater Hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-HEATER-WATER-HOSE-LR2-RANGE-EVOQUE-LR019276-OEM/182874186699?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Antifreeze/Coolant https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ntifreeze/888374/6283972?q=zerex+orange&pos=0
This is my email: [email protected]Can I also get those images? Was not able to see them as well..
I have the exact same situation and I'm hoping that it's not the radiator is not cracked. I cannot pinpoint the leak though as it'll require me to remove the bumper. Did you find your leak?Hello all, PLEASE HELP! Past year purchased wife a 2014 Evoque. Started with a very, very small coolant leak on the front driver side. Recently it's increased. I did some research and don't believe my issue is what is posted here and also took a look at the water pump and no leak there. After removing grill, tow eye cover and under paneling I couldn't pinpoint the source of the leak. Only thing I can find is I see small build up near the bottom right (driver side) of the radiator. I'll post some pictures but it may be hard to see. Also on the right side looking down at the point mentioned prior, I can see a small droplet of coolant. Anybody have any ideas? Seem like the only thing I can do to examine the radiator more is removing the front bumper, is that also the case?
Thanks in advance for any help.
New2Rover
View attachment 4760 View attachment 4762 View attachment 4763
I think I found my leak. It's coming from this radiator hose. You can see it's a bit wet, but I also wrapped a paper towel around that to see if it's wet after driving it. Anyone happen to have the part number? Mine is a 2013 model. View attachment 4786
View attachment 4785
Darn! Was hoping that was it! Not sure when, might even be after the holidays, I will take it in and get a pressure test done on the radiator system. According to the guy in my area, he said it's only $25 bucks or so and that should diagnose where the leak is coming from. Good luck and let me know if you find anything.Actually that's not where my leak is coming from. I wrapped it with a paper towel and the towel was dry. I still have the leak and I'm afraid it's the radiator. I looked from above and I can see that the leak is coming from behind the cooling fans at the bottom.
Thanks for the post! This is helpful. My 2015 Evoque was leaking coolant. I replaced the water pump but it is still leaking coolant. I might have to try this. Please email me those attachments @ [email protected]LionessLee and Benjaminkc84, I emailed you both. If anyone else needs the step-by-step guide with pictures just drop your email address.
did you figure out the source of your leak? I am afraid I might have the same issue with the 2014 evoqueActually that's not where my leak is coming from. I wrapped it with a paper towel and the towel was dry. I still have the leak and I'm afraid it's the radiator. I looked from above and I can see that the leak is coming from behind the cooling fans at the bottom.
Yes it's the radiator. Weather is still cold outside so I'm gonna wait until the warm weather. This is like a 5-6 hour job since you need to remove the bumper and recover the refrigerant from the AC.did you figure out the source of your leak? I am afraid I might have the same issue with the 2014 evoque