[CRIS]

this is a really good explanation. Well done sir. Do you mind share the attachments to my mail [email protected] thanks a bunch!

 

[RoosterMKV]

Hello and thanks for the reply. I went ahead and tackled this repair blindly back on 1/11/2020 because there was no YouTube how to video made or anything else for that instance. I've been meaning to do a step by step video but I didn't really take a whole lot of pictures or video. Anyway, it's a fairly easy job but having the right tools is a plus. First things first, remove the whole battery and the battery tray from the engine bay. This is needed to gain access to the heater hose connectors near the back of the engine.

View attachment 4178 Battery and battery tray removed. Heater hose connectors are circled.

Next, go ahead and remove the wiper blades and the cowl to expose the heater hoses and ECM near the firewall. This is where the fun begins. You have to remove the ECM in order to have enough room to disconnect those 2 hose connectors. You don't have to remove the ECM from the bracket. Just remove the whole ECM/bracket assembly all together. DO NOT REMOVE the ECM from the ECM bracket. Disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses from the ECM and next remove those 2 nuts that hold the ECM bracket to the firewall. If I remember correctly they're 10mm and it's not a lot of room to work with. Luckily, I had a flex ratchet set that came in handy but it's still a pain. In the process of reinstalling those nuts after removal I was only able to get one of the 2 nuts back on because of the tight space.

View attachment 4180 That's the ECM bracket location exposing the studs after ECM and bracket removal.

View attachment 4182 You can see one of the heater core connectors here in red.

Now, the second hardest part of this repair is removing the hose connectors from the heater core itself. After googling and finding the PDF manual to locking and unlocking those twist connectors they're still not just going to slide easily. Instructions about those connectors are on page 34 -----> https://www.normagroup.com/norma.ns...f/$file/EJT_Cooling_System_Catalogue_2013.pdf Turn the twist connectors to the left (counter clockwise) to unlock them. I used a pair of pliers to get a good grip on the hoses and worked them back off the heater core pipes. Be careful not to grip those connectors too hard as to dent those heater core pipes. Also, go ahead and remove the easier heater hose connectors near the back of the engine if you haven't already done so when removing the battery and battery tray. You simply pry those ring fittings up using a flat head screw driver to loosen them and work them off.

View attachment 4184 Old and new heater hoses.

Now, reverse the steps to complete the repair. I went ahead and did a drain, flush and fill the next day after making sure there were no leaks after about 50 miles of highway driving. I used the Zerex Orange 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant to fill and top off.

Heater Hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-HEATER-WATER-HOSE-LR2-RANGE-EVOQUE-LR019276-OEM/182874186699?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Antifreeze/Coolant https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ntifreeze/888374/6283972?q=zerex+orange&pos=0

Not sure why I can’t see any of your attachments but if you have them still available and could send them my way it would be a huge help! [email protected]

 

[Chris Evans]

Hello and thanks for the reply. I went ahead and tackled this repair blindly back on 1/11/2020 because there was no YouTube how to video made or anything else for that instance. I've been meaning to do a step by step video but I didn't really take a whole lot of pictures or video. Anyway, it's a fairly easy job but having the right tools is a plus. First things first, remove the whole battery and the battery tray from the engine bay. This is needed to gain access to the heater hose connectors near the back of the engine.

View attachment 4178 Battery and battery tray removed. Heater hose connectors are circled.

Next, go ahead and remove the wiper blades and the cowl to expose the heater hoses and ECM near the firewall. This is where the fun begins. You have to remove the ECM in order to have enough room to disconnect those 2 hose connectors. You don't have to remove the ECM from the bracket. Just remove the whole ECM/bracket assembly all together. DO NOT REMOVE the ECM from the ECM bracket. Disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses from the ECM and next remove those 2 nuts that hold the ECM bracket to the firewall. If I remember correctly they're 10mm and it's not a lot of room to work with. Luckily, I had a flex ratchet set that came in handy but it's still a pain. In the process of reinstalling those nuts after removal I was only able to get one of the 2 nuts back on because of the tight space.

View attachment 4180 That's the ECM bracket location exposing the studs after ECM and bracket removal.

View attachment 4182 You can see one of the heater core connectors here in red.

Now, the second hardest part of this repair is removing the hose connectors from the heater core itself. After googling and finding the PDF manual to locking and unlocking those twist connectors they're still not just going to slide easily. Instructions about those connectors are on page 34 -----> https://www.normagroup.com/norma.ns...f/$file/EJT_Cooling_System_Catalogue_2013.pdf Turn the twist connectors to the left (counter clockwise) to unlock them. I used a pair of pliers to get a good grip on the hoses and worked them back off the heater core pipes. Be careful not to grip those connectors too hard as to dent those heater core pipes. Also, go ahead and remove the easier heater hose connectors near the back of the engine if you haven't already done so when removing the battery and battery tray. You simply pry those ring fittings up using a flat head screw driver to loosen them and work them off.

View attachment 4184 Old and new heater hoses.

Now, reverse the steps to complete the repair. I went ahead and did a drain, flush and fill the next day after making sure there were no leaks after about 50 miles of highway driving. I used the Zerex Orange 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant to fill and top off.

Heater Hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-HEATER-WATER-HOSE-LR2-RANGE-EVOQUE-LR019276-OEM/182874186699?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Antifreeze/Coolant https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ntifreeze/888374/6283972?q=zerex+orange&pos=0

can someone please email the photos to me as well? Thanks much. [email protected]

 

[Chris Evans]

How do you remove the hose connections closest to the engine?

 

[J Donoho]

I could sure use the diagrams as well. If you could please email [email protected]
Thank you!

 

[Chris Evans]

The earlier explanation was excellent. This is quite a job, but is certainly doable at a much lower cost than taking to the shop. The new hose is $45.00.

My wiper arms were initially stuck and so was the cowl. Had to use a puller for the arms and the cowl was tough to remove, while trying to be careful for it not to crack or break, but eventually came free.

I used a hose cutter that I had on hand to assist in getting the old hose out. I heated and bent an old 10mm wrench for the ECM nuts. The new hose was more pliable than the old one and was therefore a little easier to work with. The distance and angle of the heater end of the hose connections are a little tricky.

When I got in there, I discovered that the hose connection at the heater was definitely the source of my leak and the replacement has fully solved the problem.

Thanks much to the original poster and to the reader who forwarded the pictures to me as well.

 

[Tom Knight]

Can I get the pictures from someone? [email protected]

 

[jayb967]

Can I also get those images? Was not able to see them as well..

 

[jayb967]

Can I also get those images? Was not able to see them as well..

This is my email: [email protected]