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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. We recently used my wife’s 2013 Evoque 2 door to tow a UHaul trailer for a vacation. The UHaul place looked up the car and told us it was qualified to easily tow the amount of weight we were looking at for this trailer. We drove 586 miles to OBX North Carolina with no issues whatsoever. The car then sat and was never started for the next 7 days. We then loaded the trailer up for the trip home ( it was significantly lighter after our vacation) and took off for the trip home. I drove about 3 miles and stopped for gas. I didn’t notice anything in those 3 miles as I never really went faster than 40 MPH. We then took off again and I noticed the CEL was on and I couldn’t go any faster than 55 MPH. It was as if the car went into limo mode. I looked up limp mode on this car and it seemed that ”true“ limp mode speed was 40 MPH. The engine didn’t sound like it was over working and the transmission was shifting appropriately. When I gave it more throttle the speedometer and the tach would advance normally but when I would hit 55, the tach would rev up further as if it was trying to go faster than 55 but the speedo stayed stuck at 55.

I retightened the gas cap to see if the CEL would go away. No luck. I tried resetting the CEL with the sequence of turning on the ignition switch, popping the hood, opening the driver door, holding the gas and brake down for 60 seconds, then shutting off the ignition. No luck.

We decided to continue on and I found that If I put the car in manual shift mode and used the paddle shifters I could easily make it up hills in 3rd, maintain speed in 4th, and go downhill in 5th and get up to almost 70. I Drove like this for about 3-4 hours without issue but then then while climbing a hill the car then seemed to be limited to 35-40 MPH, (true limp mode?)

We then decided to stop and had the car towed home on a flat bed. We had to rent a truck and transfer all the contents of our trailer into the truck. We had the car towed to the dealership back home (a $400 tow even with my Premier AAA membership which covers the first 200 miles)

The dealership tells us that all the codes seem to point to a bad turbo. A new one is going to cost $4000! First of all, any thoughts from the experts here on this? Do the symptoms I describe sound like what you’d see with a bad turbo? I would appreciate any thoughts or comments on our issue.

Sorry this is so long but I wanted to give all the details.
Thanks!
Ed
 

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Same thing happened to me with the manual shifters. The first month I owned it, I thought it was the transmission.but was told I probably hit the shifters.
I recently took it to LR dealer for a diagnostic. They discovered a cracked manifold quoted $4800 to replace.I have an added warranty through red shied that supposedly covers the Turbo, but they denied the claim due to the manifold not being a covered turbo part. I may fight it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First of all, nothing seemed out of whack when I was using the paddle shifters. The engine reacted normally and the gears shifted smoothly. And even if it WAS the paddle shifters, isn't the car designed to function normally if you manually shift as opposed to automatic mode? I don't understand why using the paddles would cause any issue. I would think it would be the fact that I was towing a trailer but even there, the car is designed to do that.
I guess I am just looking for verification that the symptoms I was seeing are indeed consistent with a bad turbo. I want to make sure that is the issue and they aren't just telling me that the problem is one of the most expensive ones there is to fix when it really is just something simple. I have NEVER trusted dealerships but no one independant wants to work on these cars (LRs)
 

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Hello all. We recently used my wife’s 2013 Evoque 2 door to tow a UHaul trailer for a vacation. The UHaul place looked up the car and told us it was qualified to easily tow the amount of weight we were looking at for this trailer. We drove 586 miles to OBX North Carolina with no issues whatsoever. The car then sat and was never started for the next 7 days. We then loaded the trailer up for the trip home ( it was significantly lighter after our vacation) and took off for the trip home. I drove about 3 miles and stopped for gas. I didn’t notice anything in those 3 miles as I never really went faster than 40 MPH. We then took off again and I noticed the CEL was on and I couldn’t go any faster than 55 MPH. It was as if the car went into limo mode. I looked up limp mode on this car and it seemed that ”true“ limp mode speed was 40 MPH. The engine didn’t sound like it was over working and the transmission was shifting appropriately. When I gave it more throttle the speedometer and the tach would advance normally but when I would hit 55, the tach would rev up further as if it was trying to go faster than 55 but the speedo stayed stuck at 55.

I retightened the gas cap to see if the CEL would go away. No luck. I tried resetting the CEL with the sequence of turning on the ignition switch, popping the hood, opening the driver door, holding the gas and brake down for 60 seconds, then shutting off the ignition. No luck.

We decided to continue on and I found that If I put the car in manual shift mode and used the paddle shifters I could easily make it up hills in 3rd, maintain speed in 4th, and go downhill in 5th and get up to almost 70. I Drove like this for about 3-4 hours without issue but then then while climbing a hill the car then seemed to be limited to 35-40 MPH, (true limp mode?)

We then decided to stop and had the car towed home on a flat bed. We had to rent a truck and transfer all the contents of our trailer into the truck. We had the car towed to the dealership back home (a $400 tow even with my Premier AAA membership which covers the first 200 miles)

The dealership tells us that all the codes seem to point to a bad turbo. A new one is going to cost $4000! First of all, any thoughts from the experts here on this? Do the symptoms I describe sound like what you’d see with a bad turbo? I would appreciate any thoughts or comments on our issue.

Sorry this is so long but I wanted to give all the details.
Thanks!
Ed
Did you ever get an answer? My 2013 engine light just came on and car went into limp mode. Have an appointment next week. They said it could be the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you ever get an answer? My 2013 engine light just came on and car went into limp mode. Have an appointment next week. They said it could be the turbo.
Well, as you can see, I didn’t get any answers here.
It was the turbo (At least that’s what they tell me. I hope they are being honest) and it cost me $4300 to fix. It’s back up and running and no issues at this time.
 

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I have an appointment on Monday at the dealership. They quoted me between $2500 and $3500 if it is the turbo. I am also like you and do not trust dealerships, so i am thinking about trying a independent mechanic. Either way I will post the results. Thanks for getting back to me.
 

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You can get a new replacement Borg Warner turbo and manifold for $1000 USD. Get your independent shop to replace it.
 

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I never use the paddle shifters, figuring the computer knows better when to shift than I do. Correction, I do use them, but as laser beam triggers, to clear out the left lane hogs (right lane if you are in UK). It doesn't work, but I feel better. lol. Good luck.
 

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Well i went with ordering the part. Got it for $1200. Install was another $1100. So all in all it came out not to bad. Better than dealership that wanted $5200.
 

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Well i went with ordering the part. Got it for $1200. Install was another $1100. So all in all it came out not to bad. Better than dealership that wanted $5200.
Good to hear! Too bad on the failure but congratulations on fixing it without the dealer.
 

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The manifolds on these almost ALL fail. The actual turbo and the engine are the same as in the Ford cars and they don't have issues. But the manifold is what is different and that is what fails. They seem to fail up near cylinder #1 and you get exhaust smell or an internal crack that can often lead to lack of boost and a noise (what I had). I purchased an aftermarket cast iron header because I think if you buy one from LR it will likely just crack again 50k-75k miles later. It wasn't a terrible job, but I don't want to have to do it again. I got the aftermarket turbo with the cast iron header for $1000 and put it on myself. But I have seen similar ones go for a little cheaper and you can get the manifold only on ebay for about $300. It is a direct from China but I suspect that is the same manifold that is used on the ones that combine the turbo and manifold.
 

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My total fix was less than expected. Went with an aftermarket part. Had independent mechanic install. Adjusted price was $2200. Still sucks but better than my $5200 quote from dealer.
 
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