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I have a 2012 Range Rover Evoque Pure.
Battery died yesterday, from what I see now it may have been due to the Engine cooling fan continuously running.

Any ideas on why the fan won't turn off?
-I left it sitting for 30 min (vehicle shut off) still not off (Vehicle left on for 30) still not off, detached battery left off 9 hours (overnight) plug battery in and first thing to continue running is the Engine Cooling Fan and it still was running.

Why would the fan continue running? I have no check engine lights on temperature doesn't increase, no other issues happening besides the fan staying on and running down my battery.

Help would be appreciated before I spend $100's at Range Rover for them to tell me it was a 10 dollar fan sensor.

Thanks
 

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Welcome to the forum!

I found the description below in the Factory Service Manual. Don't know if this will help or not, but thought I'd pass it along.

"The cooling fans are operated by a fan control module which is located at the rear of the LH (left-hand) cooling fan motor. The fan control module regulates the voltage, and subsequently the speed, of the cooling fan motors in response to a PWM (pulse width modulation) signal from the ECM (engine control module). The ECM calculates the required fan speeds from the engine temperature, A/C system pressure and transmission fluid temperature.

Under hot operating conditions, the
fans may continue to operate for up to four minutes after the engine has been switched off.
The speed of the cooling fans is also influenced by vehicle road speed. The ECM adjusts the speed of the cooling fans, to compensate for the ram effect of vehicle speed, using the CAN (controller area network) road speed signal received from the ABS (anti-lock brake system) module."

The BAD news if the control module is bad...

"
The cooling fan control module is also mounted on the shroud, behind the LH fan motor. The shroud incorporates 4 speed flaps, which pivot open to allow engine compartment cooling at speed.
The shroud, fans and module are supplied as one assembly and individual parts are not serviceable."


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to the forum!

I found the description below in the Factory Service Manual. Don't know if this will help or not, but thought I'd pass it along.

"The cooling fans are operated by a fan control module which is located at the rear of the LH (left-hand) cooling fan motor. The fan control module regulates the voltage, and subsequently the speed, of the cooling fan motors in response to a PWM (pulse width modulation) signal from the ECM (engine control module). The ECM calculates the required fan speeds from the engine temperature, A/C system pressure and transmission fluid temperature.

Under hot operating conditions, the
fans may continue to operate for up to four minutes after the engine has been switched off.
The speed of the cooling fans is also influenced by vehicle road speed. The ECM adjusts the speed of the cooling fans, to compensate for the ram effect of vehicle speed, using the CAN (controller area network) road speed signal received from the ABS (anti-lock brake system) module."

The BAD news if the control module is bad...

"
The cooling fan control module is also mounted on the shroud, behind the LH fan motor. The shroud incorporates 4 speed flaps, which pivot open to allow engine compartment cooling at speed.
The shroud, fans and module are supplied as one assembly and individual parts are not serviceable."


Actually. You helped a lot. I knew it was a module, motor or connection issue of some sort but t this helped and now you have saved me whatever the cost may have been. Will be fixing the issue myself. Thanks @Rsquared
 

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I had the same issue!

I just had this problem a few weeks ago. Odd that it happened couple days after someone rear-ended me. It wasn't a big damage but when I dropped off at the collision repair shop, the fan2 stays on full blast until it drains the battery. Insurance won't pay, I took it to the dealership and knew I'm going to waste my money on diagnostic ($150) as they cannot relate it to the accident, but I had to make sure. They requested to have the whole fans and module replacement for around $2500 + $400 for the battery. I denied the repairs as I know my battery is still good since it's only 5 months old that's still under warranty. I have a battery charger, order the fan module for about $160 (can get it from China for $40 but I need it fast), replaced with just removing one screw from the module. I'm back driving it like new again. I came to agreed that this is not accident related because I'm at 110k miles and glad it actually made it this far with couple self-repairable issues.

Google: Evoque fan control module - mfg part# 7T438C609BA
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Problem

I just had this problem a few weeks ago. Odd that it happened couple days after someone rear-ended me. It wasn't a big damage but when I dropped off at the collision repair shop, the fan2 stays on full blast until it drains the battery. Insurance won't pay, I took it to the dealership and knew I'm going to waste my money on diagnostic ($150) as they cannot relate it to the accident, but I had to make sure. They requested to have the whole fans and module replacement for around $2500 + $400 for the battery. I denied the repairs as I know my battery is still good since it's only 5 months old that's still under warranty. I have a battery charger, order the fan module for about $160 (can get it from China for $40 but I need it fast), replaced with just removing one screw from the module. I'm back driving it like new again. I came to agreed that this is not accident related because I'm at 110k miles and glad it actually made it this far with couple self-repairable issues.
Yep I had a place tell me $1800 needing a whole new module but needed to replace the fans entirely as well they do not sell the module <-- BS. Found out from rockauto.com you can get any part you ever need for any vehicle cheaper. Also took it to the place I bought it and they are doing the diagnostic said module worked fine but they are now checking it out. Waterpump was leaking which i think caused the fan to have issues of staying on (hopefully that is the real case) otherwise a new module is in order.

Glad yours worked out. I also was lucky enough to have 2 places tell me the problem (couldn't fix) but also didn't charge for diagnostic.
 

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I just had this problem a few weeks ago. Odd that it happened couple days after someone rear-ended me. It wasn't a big damage but when I dropped off at the collision repair shop, the fan2 stays on full blast until it drains the battery. Insurance won't pay, I took it to the dealership and knew I'm going to waste my money on diagnostic ($150) as they cannot relate it to the accident, but I had to make sure. They requested to have the whole fans and module replacement for around $2500 + $400 for the battery. I denied the repairs as I know my battery is still good since it's only 5 months old that's still under warranty. I have a battery charger, order the fan module for about $160 (can get it from China for $40 but I need it fast), replaced with just removing one screw from the module. I'm back driving it like new again. I came to agreed that this is not accident related because I'm at 110k miles and glad it actually made it this far with couple self-repairable issues.
Hi, how hard was it to replace the module?Do I have to remove grill or bumper? I just ordered mine for $160 yestrerday, hope I can do this by my self.
 

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I have a 2012 Pure Plus 92,000 miles and my fan turned on just keep going (Sunday Night)! When it would not stop, I ended up pulling the negative battery cable to stop the fan. Then I unplugged the top cable to the main cooling fan (the fan that kept running). The cable connects to a box need the center of the fan on the engine side. The box is the Fan Control Module which had failed. I got a replacement made by Gates. Simple to replace. One screw towards the top of the box and three cables that just unplug. Took just about 15 minutes including reconnecting the battery cable. Now the fan behaves. I was also able to start and move the car with the cable to the fan disconnect without upsetting a bunch of fault codes (I had to reconnect the battery to move the car). For once a nice easy fix.
 

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I have a 2012 Pure Plus 92,000 miles and my fan turned on just keep going (Sunday Night)! When it would not stop, I ended up pulling the negative battery cable to stop the fan. Then I unplugged the top cable to the main cooling fan (the fan that kept running). The cable connects to a box need the center of the fan on the engine side. The box is the Fan Control Module which had failed. I got a replacement made by Gates. Simple to replace. One screw towards the top of the box and three cables that just unplug. Took just about 15 minutes including reconnecting the battery cable. Now the fan behaves. I was also able to start and move the car with the cable to the fan disconnect without upsetting a bunch of fault codes (I had to reconnect the battery to move the car). For once a nice easy fix.
Do you have the link where you purchased the new control module? the shop quoted me 2k because I have to "replace the whole fan unit"
Also, would you be kind enough to go over the process? the module box is behind the driver side fan right?
Did you have to remove anything else in order to access the module?
 

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The fan module is very accessible. It is right behind the radiator, on the frame holding the big fan. Look down next to the air filter on the driver side (US cars). One screw holds it on the frame and there are three cables connected to it. The cables have a little tabs that must be lifted before pulling the cable free. The cable on the top of the module supplies the power. This is the cable to disconnect if the fan in running non stop. Make sure you disconnect the battery before trying to unplug this cable! (Keep them fingers!!!)
I had removed the top cable to stop the fan and left it off. When I got the new module, i unscrewed the module and then removed the last cables. Putting in the new one on is just the reverse. I did use some dielectric grease on the cable plugs. Snapped the cable on the underside fitted the module in its spot and screwed the module to the fan frame, snapped in the last cable on and reconnected the battery. The fan was at peace.


I got the module from a local machine / parts shop here in Seattle "Autosport Seattle" Here is the link Autosport Seattle | Full Service Machine Shop and Parts. The replacement is not a Land Rover part is is actually made by Gates (the fan belt people!) Gates Control Module FCM135. I am sure Autosport would be happy to ship it to you. Or see if you can get a Gates module locally.

I tried to insert some photos but this reply would not take them??? So I attached a photo. It shows the module in place with the screw that hold the module to the fan frame and the cable that supplies the power. I hope this helps!
 
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