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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks to this forum I was able to do my rear pads and save something like $500 so here is a DIY with some pics. Disclaimer first, only do this if you feel comfortable working on your vehicle. This is not an official guide and you are fully responsible for your actions. Consult your manual for more details and proper procedures. I performed this a couple weeks ago and wanted to post then but my account hadn't been verified. The sizes of some tools might be off.

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Tools -
Brake cleaner
Caliper rewind tool from auto parts store
gloves
pads, I used EBC Greenstuff
towel
Lug nut wrench, I used the one in the spare since I couldn't find an appropriate one in my tool box. Might be 20 or 22mm
Wrenches I believe 13 and 15mm

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Loosen the nuts and then lift the truck in the appropriate locations. Make sure to use jack stands for your own safety.
Use this guide to put your rear calipers into service mode. When it goes into service mode you will hear it set for about 5 seconds. You will also get a message on your dash.

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Use the 2 wrenches one on either side of the nuts which hold the caliper in place. One of the wrenches in place in the pic. I fully removed the lower one and just loosened the top. Then just rotated the caliper up. Remove the brake pads by twisting and pulling out.

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Use the generic disc on the rewind tool without any guides. Follow the instructions that came with the tool. I tightened till the piston was flush with the caliper, didn't force it

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Place new pads and follow instructions in pad packaging. They come with lubricant which you place on the pins and in the metal brackets that hold the pads in place.
Follow instructions in guide to remove brakes from service mode. Again you will hear it set for 5 seconds or so.
 

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Good information and nice pictures. Thanks for posting.

One question... are the pads symmetrical, or is the inner pad different from the outer pad? If so, how do you tell the difference?
 

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Thanks for taking the time to share this information. Did you put the car into service mode just once – and then did both rear brakes before taking it out of service mode? Any problems with the new brake pads bedding with the original rotors. Doesn't Land Rover recommend replacing the rotors along with the pads?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The pads are symmetrical and the discs are warn but not to the point of needing replacement just yet. My vehicle has 39k miles, When it's time for the front pads I will do both sets of discs, again with EBC. You only set into service mode once unless you have to move the vehicle after you do one pad.
 

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Hi, just a few quick question. Is it necessary to put the car into service or can you do without it? Also can you tell me what size wrenches you used? I believe the tip is a 13mm and where you would put the wrench is a 15mm? I tried to remove them earlier but didn't have a 15 and my adjustable wrench wouldn't fit. Had tp put the wheel back on so I can get the proper size tomorrow... Also if you know what size the front wrench would be that would be helpful. I believe the front is a Allen wrench, thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you are going to do all 4 open the fluid reservoir and check on it after each pad. The front I believe is a 7 Allen and you have to remove black caps to see the bolt. There is also a metal clip that must be removed from the caliper. I slightly bent mine, so the next change I'll buy new ones. The rear I don't recall, I thought it was 2 13s and yes you definitely need to put the car into brake service mode. Search this forum to find out what happens when you dont
 

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Did you check the rotors for wear when you replaced the pads?
If so, what thickness guide did you use to determine that the rotors were fine?

I am trying to find out what the factory recommends for both front and rear brake rotors. (in MM)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't know what the recommended thickness is by the manufacturer. Disclaimer, for your safety you should check recommended and minimum thickness requirements. I did a visual / tactile check and there was wear but I didn't think it warranted replacing. I remember hearing that Range Rover recommends replacing the rotors because owners would complain of braking squeal when only the pads were replaced. Basically the owners did not know how to bed the brakes and the easiest solution for Range Rover is to charge more than double to then replace the rotors. I am fairly certain I left the vehicle in accessory mode, as in engine not running but interior dash on, disclaimer again check Range Rover documentation for proper service mode use.
 

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One thing to remember, if you need to add any brake fluid during the procedure Range Rover requires the low viscosity type DOT 4. This isn't the cheaper and more common DOT 3/4 multi compatible type. It needs to meet requirement ISO Class 6. I found it at PEP Boys, made in Germany by 'Pentosin.' It cost about $20 a liter.
 

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Why I do this I'll never understand, but I always seem to forget to get a wench when using the compression tool. I always try holding the brake caliper assembly and twist the handle. You must hold the wrench on the inner part of the tool while turning the handle. I always feel so stupid when I discover my mistake.
 

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Many shops, specially dealers, usually do not want to change just the pads due to possible issues.
 

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Does anyone know what model of EBC Greenstuff is best to use? The EBC UK website recommends the "heavier duty Truck/SUV" Greenstuff 6000 series (DP61932 for the front). But many websites in the USA say the 2000 series (DP21932 for the front) is what is recommended for the Evoque. The UK website says the 2000 series is for small cars while the 6000 series is for Trucks and SUVs. I called EBC USA and they said they had the 2000 series listed but their reason is that "while we have faster speed limits in the USA, the UK has curvier roads, so that is why 2000 series is recommended for the Evoque in the USA". I'm not really buying it and thinking I should get the 6000 series.
 

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I have just replaced the rear pads using the instructions, supplied it worked a treat. The only problem I have had is that one of the pads wasnt quite aligned and when I re activated the EPB it actually bent the metal backing on the pad. The remedy (after fitting another new pad) was to slowly depress the footbrake so it has time to seat properly, then go through the reset procedure for the EPB.
 

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Did you check the rotors for wear when you replaced the pads?
If so, what thickness guide did you use to determine that the rotors were fine?

I am trying to find out what the factory recommends for both front and rear brake rotors. (in MM)
Anywhere between there are serviceable.
Fronts 28mm - 26mm
Rears 11mm - 9mm



Does anyone know what model of EBC Greenstuff is best to use? The EBC UK website recommends the "heavier duty Truck/SUV" Greenstuff 6000 series (DP61932 for the front). But many websites in the USA say the 2000 series (DP21932 for the front) is what is recommended for the Evoque. The UK website says the 2000 series is for small cars while the 6000 series is for Trucks and SUVs. I called EBC USA and they said they had the 2000 series listed but their reason is that "while we have faster speed limits in the USA, the UK has curvier roads, so that is why 2000 series is recommended for the Evoque in the USA". I'm not really buying it and thinking I should get the 6000 series.
I recently did all 4 with EBC yellow stuff and EBC rotors. I like it a lot more then the green stuff, I felt like it had more initial bite and had better stopping power with heat in it. But i'm also probably more aggressive with my Evoque; Proof im 25 ;)
 
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