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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having trouble removing the front drive shafts from the hubs on a 2012 TD4. The service manual says that the drive shaft spline should push out, once the lock nut has been removed. I have tried a puller, on both sides, but can't get the shafts to move in the hubs. Has anyone tackled this job? Did you have difficulties? Here is a photo of where I am up to.
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Hi Lachlan,
Yes. I had exactly the same problem. I tried a puller like you have and ended up bending it.
It seems that the hub and the driveshaft are different metals and they react with each other and end up virtually welded together.
In the end I bought a 10 ton hydraulic puller from ebay ( 10T Hydraulic Puller Wheel Hub Drive Shaft Extractor Spindle Pulling Tool 738672913877 | eBay ). Not cheap, but I am a gadget fanatic so I couldn't help myself. I also bought some high tensile M14 1.5 fine nuts to fasten it onto the hub rather than using the wheel nuts which would otherwise inevitably get damaged.
It did the job, but I can't understand why Land Rover had to change from the old cast iron parts on the Freelander which were never a problem.
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Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply Redbenson111. I am in Broome, Western Australia. It will take too long to take delivery of a better puller. I need to drive the car back to Sydney next week. I decided to remove to drive shafts while still attached to the hubs and struts. This let me get the gearbox out. The purpose of the work is to replace the clutch. So far, so good. The new clutch is in. I should have the job finished today. Here is a photo of the drive shafts removed with the hubs.
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Oh well, if the gearbox was coming out anyway, I guess It isn't too much extra work to take the driveshafts out. I was just changing the CV joints on mine. At least you seem to have got the bottom balljoint bolts out. Mine are completely welded into the hub (same problem with incompatable metals). Glad you managed it and I like your keen helper beside the yellow bucket!
 

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Since you have the steering rack out, have you thought about replacing the steering rack bolts that have been failing, and causing complete steering failure?
Have a look at the thread below from the UK Evoque forum.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Rsquared. I was not aware of the steering rack bolt issue. Good to know about. Unfortunately I'd reinstalled the subframe before I saw your message. I will be sure to change the bolts at the next opportunity.

The good news is that the car is driving really well on its new clutch! I'm glad to have this job finished. It was rather difficult and ended up taking much longer to do than I'd planned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here's my evoque now that it is back in one piece.

The other cars in the photo are in various states of repair. The GQ is running well, but coming up for 300k service. The troopie is throwing a TPS error and needs a rear diff. The Series 3 Land rover has a very rusty firewall.

There's plenty more fun to be had when I get back to Broome in the new year.
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