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I am looking into changing my headlight bulbs to the Phillips CrystalVision or Vision Plus.... has anyone else chaned them yet? I just hate the yellow color of the headlamps when the Foglamps are LED , and the stock headlamp bulbs don't exactly produce a very good beam. I thought the truck originally came with HID's but it didn't and upgrading them is way too expensive. Any suggestions would be appreciated.:cool:
 

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I feel the same way about our stock halogen bulbs. I purchased a pair of Sylvania Silverstar Ultra Hb3 (9500) and I'm awaiting their delivery. Lots of counterfeit bulbs, especially on ebay so buy carefully. The reviews I read of the Phillips Crystal Vision didn't show any light output gain, only a colder blueish light. The Sylvania color is very close to the Xenon color. Claims and reviews confirm more light output about 20-25%. The downside is the short life about 12 – 18 months. I wouldn't risk using 100W halogens because of the heat they produce and the increased amperage. Our Evoque's headlight circuit is designed for 55W halogen our else 35W Xenon bulbs.

Don't be fooled into the HID Xeon conversions. Most are less than $100. Cheap Chinese product with the end result less output than the stock halogen lighting. Even the ones that claim german parts are from China. The ballasts are junk and their sub par performance will distort the specified bulb temperature. My research found that to use Xenon bulbs effectively the projector lens needs to be designed for them, requiring the entire stock Xenon designed head light assembly from Land Rover. The Xenon conversion kits are for the blue light 'bling' appearance, not for performance.
 

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A follow up. I changed out the factory halogen headlight bulbs on my Evoque today. I replaced them with the 55W Sylvania 9500 SilverStar Ultra bulbs. Here's the procedure, its easy to do and is somewhat inaccurately described in the owner's manual which is for the HID Xenon lamp units. 15 minutes, perhaps slightly longer the first time


NEVER TOUCH THE GLASS SURFACE OF THE BULB. If by accident you do clean it with alcohol to remove any oil from your fingers.


1) Remove the air snorkel. Two finger loosening big plastic expander X screws (don't loose them.) Wiggle back and forth and pull snorkel straight up, its a snap fit into the air box. Snorkel will release quickly when it does and these X screws will most likely go flying and drop into a black hole to the 4th dimension in your engine compartment. My dealer didn't have them in inventory and needs to order them.


2) Remove the grille. Along the top grill unscrew the 4 small plastic phillips expander screws and remove the collars they expand. Be careful not to drop them into the engine compartment, they're also a dealer item. Now sharply pull the grille directly forward from the bottom corners. There are two metal snap connectors about 2" from the corners that will snap release.


3) Remove the one 10mm bolt that holds the windshield washer reservoir in place which allows you to push it to one side.


4) Remove the 4 10mm bolts on top of the headlamp units. 2 bolts for each headlamp unit. Notice how loose they are installed. When reinstalling them tighten the bolts very very gently. You don't want to break the plastic rings the bolts tighten up to.


5) Pull up on the headlamp release paddle on the back side of the headlamp unit and the entire lamp unit can be pulled forward a short distance (this feature is very cool.) This gives you more working room to remove the headlight bulbs, and also if it was the case, access to the side lamp bulbs in the headlight assembly. Notice that there is a plug on the headlamp (lower corner on the grille side) that fits in a grommet and this positions the headlight assembly correctly to the body.


6) Unscrew the big plastic plate on the backside of the headlight unit. This reveals the bulb. Release the connector to the bulb by pushing back on the connector's tab lever that locks it in place while pulling on the connector. This can test your patience. In hindsight It might be easier to remove the bulb with the connector attached and then release the connector.


7) This is important. The owner's manual says turn the bulb's retaining collar counterclockwise to release the bulb. Maybe for the HID type lamps but not for the halogen type. I have two bandaged fingers while I write this with deep cuts. This increased the job time by 30 min. before I could get them to stop bleeding. Turn the bulb not the ring. The metal ring doesn't turn. It is razor sharp along the ring edge as you firmly squeeze it to try to turn it, it cuts very deep.


8) Once the bulbs are installed and reconnected (make certain all three bulb tabs are inside the ring when the bulb is turned and secured,) turn on the headlights to check their operation. The car must be running for the headlamps to work.


9) Everything goes back together in reverse sequence. Remember to align the headlight assembly plug to the grommet when pushing it in to the body and to barely tighten the 4 headlight assembly bolts to the plastic tab rings.


A night drive confirmed these bulbs perform much better than the original. I was skeptical of the improvement claims on the package "up to 50% greater brightness, they can increase visibility down the road by up to 40%, and peripheral visibility by up to 50%." – not quite but close to this improvement, on the high beam. On low beam the side to side range is greatly improved – bicyclists, joggers and quadrapeds are easier to see. I no longer have to use my fog lamps to see potholes on dimly lit side streets. The color is whiter but about halfway between the original bulb and the fog lamps. Too bad they have a short bulb life.
 
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