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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,
I posted about an unknown spring yesterday, but have a few more parts that I can't find replacements for. My 2013 threw PO299, which led me to replace the turbocharger. Good news is that I finally got it out and the turbine is frozen. I have a new one on the way. Bad news is that after I took the manifold off the studs, I found a spring, about the length of my index finger, on the lower heat shield. I'm having trouble adding the picture, but does anyone know where it might have come from? I didn't remove anything other than what was attached to the turbocharger, with the exception of some trim pieces for better access.
Also, a few parts were missing, and I'm hoping someone can help me with the part names/numbers:
It was missing 1 of the 3 bolts that connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold; specifically, the top bolt.
The middle-bottom nut and stud on the manifold was missing its washer.
I can't seem to find replacement gaskets that go around the oil line bolts. The one that has two circles
connected by metal.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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I ordered most of that stuff when I replaced mine. I will look to see if I can find the part numbers. I remember using the LR exploded diagram parts drawings was not very clear. I know I had the oil line gasket and it wasn't cheap (for what it is). You can get by with using just some correctly sized copper washers, but having them connected by the metal piece made it way easier. I remember I had a difficult time finding the bolts/nuts for the downpipe to manifold connection. If I remember correctly they didn't show up on the drawings.
 

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These are the parts I ordered. Unfortunately I ordered from my local dealer and the cost was MUCH higher. They are typically 1.5-2x what is listed as retail from other LR dealers that are online.

1 Turbocharger (Exhaust Manifold) Gasket LR025852
1 (Turbo) Oil Feed Tube Filter LR025523
1 Exhaust Manifold to Converter Pipe Gasket LR025110
10 Turbocharger (Exhaust Manifold) Nut LR025680
2 (Turbo) Oil Return Tube Gasket LR032083
3 (Turbo) Water inlet/outlet tube gasket LR025565

LR025565 is the 2 circular washers with the metal tab connecting them. But these are for the water lines, not the oil lines. The oil return gaskets is LR032083. I had planned on just using generic copper crush washers for the other oil feed gaskets, but the only ones I could find that size were quite a bit thicker and I didn't want to risk anything going wrong so I went to the dealer and picked those up. The number for that is LR046643

The manual says to replace the oil return line (LR075622) but I didn't do that, but I did use new gaskets on it (LR032083). And definitely don't forget to replace the tube filter LR025523.

I replaced the nuts and washers for the exhaust manifold to engine (LR025680 & LR028235) and of course the manifold (LR025852).

For the exhaust to turbo connection I got the gasket (LR025110), but I couldn't find the bolts. The only place I could find them were listed on the LR2 and the part # was LR005738 , but I didn't buy them. But I think that is what I would try if I had wanted to replace them.

I also didn't replace the cat to mid pipe gasket (WCM500120 ) or the nuts (LR027177). Again those nuts were only shown for the LR2. I didn't buy them so I can't be sure that is the correct part number, but it is what I was going to buy.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Lemmy. I found all the other parts besides the missing bolt. You are correct, it doesn't show up on the parts diagram. The dealership in Tampa sells the parts online with a diagram as reference. They had the missing washer and the gaskets for the coolant line.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
These are the parts I ordered. Unfortunately I ordered from my local dealer and the cost was MUCH higher. They are typically 1.5-2x what is listed as retail from other LR dealers that are online.

1 Turbocharger (Exhaust Manifold) Gasket LR025852
1 (Turbo) Oil Feed Tube Filter LR025523
1 Exhaust Manifold to Converter Pipe Gasket LR025110
10 Turbocharger (Exhaust Manifold) Nut LR025680
2 (Turbo) Oil Return Tube Gasket LR032083
3 (Turbo) Water inlet/outlet tube gasket LR025565
Why did you replace the nuts?

Also, I only took off 2 of Water inlet/outlet tube gasket LR025565. Do you remember why you needed the third?
 

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You mean why did I replace the nuts on the exhaust manifold engine studs? They are copper nuts and the manual says to replace them. It may work fine not replacing them, but most places I said it is a good idea to replace them.

There are 2 of the LR025565 gaskets on the longer water tube (12 in the pic) and another one on the short water tube (#17 in the picture). I remember I was very confused by the drawings in the manual and the part diagrams. But I am pretty sure I ended up needing all 3.



 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for reminding me of that 3rd gasket! I'll order it now. Also, my manual didn't say to replace the nuts. That's interesting. I might go ahead and replace them.
 

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I think you could probably get away without replacing them. I have reused copper washers on motorcycle oil drain plugs many times and even reused copper crush washers on brakes in a pinch and never had an issue. Sure brakes are very important, but I would notice a leak and they are easily. If these hoses and pipes were easy to access I probably wouldn't replace any of them except for the manifold to engine gasket. But I didn't want to have to deal with this again so it was (relatively) cheap insurance, especially if you don't buy from the local dealer.

My dealer wanted over $4k to put another failure prone LR turbo on mine, so I got one with a (hopefully) more reliable cast manifold and installed it myself. The money I saved I used to install a 2 post lift in my garage and still had money left over!
 

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I think you could probably get away without replacing them. I have reused copper washers on motorcycle oil drain plugs many times and even reused copper crush washers on brakes in a pinch and never had an issue. Sure brakes are very important, but I would notice a leak and they are easily. If these hoses and pipes were easy to access I probably wouldn't replace any of them except for the manifold to engine gasket. But I didn't want to have to deal with this again so it was (relatively) cheap insurance, especially if you don't buy from the local dealer.

My dealer wanted over $4k to put another failure prone LR turbo on mine, so I got one with a (hopefully) more reliable cast manifold and installed it myself. The money I saved I used to install a 2 post lift in my garage and still had money left over!
My thoughts exactly on the replacement turbo.

Did you do anything to calibrate the gate with your new turbo? I've seen a few things about using a vacuum pump to seal it for calibration, but my manual doesn't have anything about it.
 

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My thoughts exactly on the replacement turbo.

Did you do anything to calibrate the gate with your new turbo? I've seen a few things about using a vacuum pump to seal it for calibration, but my manual doesn't have anything about it.

I am glad you brought that up because I definitely did. Actually I got mine turbo parts canada and they recommend doing that in the video, but I never saw it in any manual. I was happy with it, but as I have said elsewhere I think they just get the cast manifold from the same place as the ones you see from China on ebay (maybe they don't). And the housing of the turbo (not the turbine) had no badge or identifying number on it at all. I worry that it is some Chinese knock off. I almost considered moving my turbine and housing over to the manifold, but I was afraid the turbine had been damaged when the inside of the manifold broke.

On the old turbo I used a mityvac that I had laying around and increased the vacuum until the gate was closed. I used a feeler gauge under the gate and felt the drag so I could make sure the drag was the same on my new one at the same level of vacuum. Otherwise it is kind of hard to determine exactly where you go from open to closed. I then transferred that over to the new turbo. But I had an additional problem. To get it set right, the nut on the rod was all the way at the end and I couldn't get the clip on there to hold the nut in place. They had a bracket on there that held the vacuum mechanism on the housing that was a bit different than the stock one. I was able to take it off and do some grinding on it to make a slotted hole so that I could get the nut a few more threads on the rod.

Another thing to watch for is the rotation between the turbo housing and the exhaust manifold. I assumed it was right but it wasn't. There is one oil line (I believe) that goes on the turbo before you install it on the car. It attaches to the turbine but then has a bracket that also mounts to the housing of the turbo. It was really difficult to get on. Then once I got the turbo bolted on and all of the manifold bolts torqued properly, there was another oil or coolant line I couldn't get on. Then I realized the problem was the turbo housing was slightly rotated (relative to the manifold) from where it should have been. Fortunately the bolt for the clamp was on the back side (instead of the engine side) and I was able to loosen it slightly and rotate the housing and then tighten it back up. After that everything fit great.
 

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I am glad you brought that up because I definitely did. Actually I got mine turbo parts canada and they recommend doing that in the video, but I never saw it in any manual. I was happy with it, but as I have said elsewhere I think they just get the cast manifold from the same place as the ones you see from China on ebay (maybe they don't). And the housing of the turbo (not the turbine) had no badge or identifying number on it at all. I worry that it is some Chinese knock off. I almost considered moving my turbine and housing over to the manifold, but I was afraid the turbine had been damaged when the inside of the manifold broke.

On the old turbo I used a mityvac that I had laying around and increased the vacuum until the gate was closed. I used a feeler gauge under the gate and felt the drag so I could make sure the drag was the same on my new one at the same level of vacuum. Otherwise it is kind of hard to determine exactly where you go from open to closed. I then transferred that over to the new turbo. But I had an additional problem. To get it set right, the nut on the rod was all the way at the end and I couldn't get the clip on there to hold the nut in place. They had a bracket on there that held the vacuum mechanism on the housing that was a bit different than the stock one. I was able to take it off and do some grinding on it to make a slotted hole so that I could get the nut a few more threads on the rod.

Another thing to watch for is the rotation between the turbo housing and the exhaust manifold. I assumed it was right but it wasn't. There is one oil line (I believe) that goes on the turbo before you install it on the car. It attaches to the turbine but then has a bracket that also mounts to the housing of the turbo. It was really difficult to get on. Then once I got the turbo bolted on and all of the manifold bolts torqued properly, there was another oil or coolant line I couldn't get on. Then I realized the problem was the turbo housing was slightly rotated (relative to the manifold) from where it should have been. Fortunately the bolt for the clamp was on the back side (instead of the engine side) and I was able to loosen it slightly and rotate the housing and then tighten it back up. After that everything fit great.
Great points! I'll be sure to check that the rotation matches the new part. Unfortunately, I had to remove the nuts on the actuator rod to get the old turbo out. Do you have any idea how to calibrate the new waste gate without having the old one to reference off of?

Thanks again for the help and advice!
 

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Great points! I'll be sure to check that the rotation matches the new part. Unfortunately, I had to remove the nuts on the actuator rod to get the old turbo out. Do you have any idea how to calibrate the new waste gate without having the old one to reference off of?

Thanks again for the help and advice!

No, unfortunately I do not. I don't think it has to be nearly as precise as what I did, but I just don't remember the amount of vacuum it took to make it closed. Is there anyway you can inspect the rod to try to see a cleaner area where the nut might have been?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So an update:

I received my parts last Friday and picked up my missing exhaust bolt Monday morning. Took me two nights to get it all back together, but now it's running better than when we bought it and no Engine Codes!

There were a few tricky/frustrating time when disassembling and reassembling, but overall I think most anyone can do this project and save a good bit of money.

I have the original turbo, which, it turns out, had a frozen turbine. The manifold wasn't cracked and seems to be in good condition. I'm probably going to throw it up on eBay in the next week; so, if anyone wants to make an offer on it, just send me a message.

Also, if anyone has any questions about the process, please don't hesitate to ask! Thanks again for the advice, Lemmy!
 

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I'm glad you got it going again. Mine seemed to have a bit more power after I installed my turbo with the different manifold, but it might have just been my imagination!
 

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I'm glad you got it going again. Mine seemed to have a bit more power after I installed my turbo with the different manifold, but it might have just been my imagination!
I don't know about the visual difference with your new manifold and turbo, but my new parts had more of the manifold bored out and the interior chamber of the turbo was larger, too. I bet it did increase the power a bit.
 
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