If you still get a check engine light after you replace the manifold replace your turbo boost pressure valve located at the upper left of the block looking into the engine compartment I found one for 35 bucks off eBay it appeared to be pretty good quality and the light hasn't come on for 50 miles and I passed emissions today.

 

Credit to CarWizzard on youtube Car Wizard fixes wife's range rover check engine turbo episode.

 

Yeah I got the notice yesterday as well. Mine cracked at around 51k miles and I replaced it myself with the cast iron manifold.

 

Anybody who has known anything about car engines, etc., over he past 100 years, know that CAST IRON exhaust manifolds have been used on cars since forever, with no problems to speak about. Leave it up to Rover engineers to screw it up, trying to weld cast iron strips onto stainless steel exhausts, causing cracks in the welded areas. The English Rover motor company has made vehicles for close to 100 years too; in early years made some outstanding examples, of very high quality vehicles, BUT in recent years, due to repeatedly selling the company to foreign firms, only to gain English control of the company between sales, and engaging in other questionable practices, have resulted in the present situation: Terrible quality control, and engineering mistakes. It is as if Rover lost all of its former credibility, lost much of its former engineering know how, even resorting to using cheap Ford engines, etc. It is as though Rover forgot all it once knew, and have just started over in the manufacturing of vehicles. Since the early 1960s, I have had Rover and Land Rover/Range Rover vehicles, but I am now tired of the newer junk.

 

When you purchase a new catalytic converter see that it has new studs and nuts then you can just hacks all the old ones off cuz they're usually a really rusted so bad that you don't recognize them they're just like a knot of rust. Be sure there are really tight so there's no leakage and then you may want to put some muffler cement on it on the part further back heading towards the muffler I used the paste and then put the tiger rap on it as you can see the tiger rap did not shrink melt to the bond so I would just go without that next time I'll probably take it off. The upper part of the catalytic converter that goes into the manifold is the trickiest part to get the three bolts loose I removed the guide they say not to do that in the manual that you should only loosen it but I found that to be a total nuisance and in the way quite often I have a picture of the catalytic converter to manifold bolts but it's very difficult to see if you go to the bolt at about 3:00 then follow that down to about the 7:00 position you may be able to make it out it's just above the lower aluminum heat shield. It's not the bull that looks obvious though

 

Launch C reader elite I think it is half decent for an amateur mechanic they have specifically for Jaguar and range Rover

 

Getting that out was one of the more easier things I thought of the whole process I just removed the firewall, air intake, heat shield the accessory battery and its tray. It was the only time that I took a shortcut that it didn't take more time than had I followed the other people's instructions

 

Hi , I have a 2016 Evoque with a crack in the manifold and will need the turbo replaced with it. Would you mind sharing where you found a cast manifold/turbo for $1K? I also need a due pump and catalytic converter. Thank you! Kathy @ camphalifax@gmail.com

Don't buy a scanner, seeking one that is cheap. You need to be well informed, by getting a scanner that will scan for ALL codes, with details about what needs to be done, by you or by a third party. Scanners are valuable tools, don't waste your money buying junk that may tell you little.

Don't buy a scanner, seeking one that is cheap. You need to be well informed, by getting a scanner that will scan for ALL codes, with details about what needs to be done, by you or by a third party. Scanners are valuable tools, don't waste your money buying junk that may tell you little.

When you have a turbocharger defect, you generally don't need the complete turbocharger; you need only the exhaust manifold that is part of the turbocharger. Don't buy a Rover exhaust manifold, because they crack, like yours probably already has done. Instead, buy a CAST IRON exhaust manifold, which bolts right up to your turbo. Cast ion manifold will not crack like original "mickey mouse" Rover ones do. A cast iron one will crack only if someone tightens the bolts so tight, that their tightening causes the cracking. Regarding the turbocharger itself, there is little to wear out on them; they have a rotor with shaft riding on brass bushings (the bushings wear), but bushings can be replaced for only a few dollars (they need to be pressed in----have auto machine shop do it for you). The terrible expense comes from the extensive labor getting the old one out, and putting the new one in, mostly because getting at the turbocharger/exhaust manifold is terribly difficult to gain access to (it is between the firewall and the inner side of engine, terribly tight quarters for working on). However, I would never ever pay anybody $10,000 dollars to do that work.

 

NOTICE TO ALL EVOQUE, DISCOVERY, LR2 OWNERS: I just received in the mail, a card saying that if you own Evoque years xx to xx Land Rover Discovery Sport years xx to xx, Rover LR2 years xx to xx, you may be eligible for money from a class action lawsuit, etc. etc. With the Evoque, it is speaking about the cracked exhaust manifolds on the turbocharger, so STAY TUNED. I own a 2015, included in the vehicles involve. I never had trouble with the cracking, but prior owner did, and he put on the uncrackable CAST IRON exhaust manifold.

 

This is the crankcase breather connection if you see any orange or red in there the o-ring of the connector you're leaking or actually oxygen is coming in and you'll get a check engine light.

 

 

I believe it's called the mass or maff connector that sits on top. You might also want to check that your air filter box is tightened down correctly and that no wires are accidentally keeping it from closing tightly. And also the large hose that flowss out of the air box needs to be snug as well as the other connections. I've been having some problem with the crankcase breather hose connector that hose is located towards the back of the hose leading about 18 in from the box it seems to need to be twisted after it's seated to be seated properly but that of course you could always make sure your gas cap is secure.

 

I believe it's called the mass or maff connector that sits on top. You might also want to check that your air filter box is tightened down correctly and that no wires are accidentally keeping it from closing tightly. And also the large hose that flowss out of the air box needs to be snug as well as the other connections. I've been having some problem with the crankcase breather hose connector that hose is located towards the back of the hose leading about 18 in from the box it seems to need to be twisted after it's seated to be seated properly but that of course you could always make sure your gas cap is secure. I've gone down a rabbit hole with that. Most of the manifolds crack about 80,000 miles you have to get on a lift and remove the heat shield to see that and for 40 bucks you can get a smoke leak detector off Amazon to make sure your connectors connections are sealed but don't run it through the box remove the large hose from the box and run it through there as I'm told the mass airflow said sir is delicate.

 

Which connection? I recently had my upper radiator hose replaced, and now I'm having turbo issues. Would love to just it to be a loose wire. Thx!

 

Lemmy999

 

British Atlantic for factory original and eBay for aftermarket. There is another poster on the thread from N.J. who's dealt with the cracked manifold issue. I'll email his address later.

 

Thank you

 

Looks like the problem was a loose electrical connection from the air filter box that I had removed when replacing the radiator hose.

 

ROGER

 

Ps discovered a third o2 censor while looking for the turbo. That been showing a code for a while it looks old didn't realize there were three of them. Hope I can get it off had a hard time or could it not remove them when I did the cats on my 07 XKR.

 

2015 just turned 80000 miles on it. I had it up on the backyard buddy today it looks good and it sounds fine but the check engine lights come on twice in three days. I've bin nursing it though error code P00299; Hole in turbo charger tube from manifold, split turbocharge dump valve diaphragm, or seized turbocharge are suggested possibilities. I could not see the manifold cover from underneath it. Trying to figure out how to upload the video.

 

Send me a DM with your email address and I will send you the turbo section of the 2015 manual if you want.

 

I purchased an e manual but it's like 5000 pages and nothing looks the same as on the car. I'm in Allentown PA. Just started getting engine light and the code for turbo. eBay has them for$250. Did the radiator last week quite the learning experience just went off you tube. Can you send me the service manual section for the turbo do you just need my email. Just signed up so not familiar with the rules here.

 

What year is your Evoque?

 

You can get some that work with your phone for fairly cheap.

 

Update: Found an auto shop that specializes in foreign cars and will do the work for about 4K. Lesson learned, will be staying away from the Range Rover dealership for a while.

 

Does 4k include the turbo or just the manifold? Is it a LR OEM or aftermarket?

 

I have heard of a few attempts at a lawsuit over the failed manifolds on the 2.0L Ecoboost engine Evoques. But I have never heard of a recall. I think I remember hearing something about a recall on 2020-2024 Evoque Turbo oil delivery pipes, but that is it.

 

My 2015 was done for free about six months ago apparently there is a recall. Look it up.

 

Hi! Do you have any more information about this recall?

 

Oh sorry, the car has around 76K miles. And the mechanic didn't give me any codes so not sure if he just didn't want to do the work? I filed a complaint with Range Rover/Land Rover, not sure what good that will do.

 

It definitely does not warrant a 10k replacement! The problem is that LR only sell the turbo assembly with the manifold and turbo. They do not sell just the manifold. But even if you buy the entire assembly from LR, a $10k quote to replace it is ridiculous. But of course like you have stated you can get the cast manifold for cheap (that is what I have now).

 

I'm sure there are instances where the turbochargers last to 150k miles, but it seems most have the manifold crack issue even before 75k miles. Proper maintenance and care can definitely extend the life of the cartridge/turbine part of the turbo, but there is little you can do to prevent the manifold from cracking since it is just a poor design.

 

Yes! you are correct about manifold cracks. I am working on my second Evoque that I bought non-running, both 75k-ish miles and in both the heat-shield over exhaust manifold was covered with carbon deposits i.e. manifold had cracks.
But this does not warrant a 10k turbo replacement. Phessio Turbo website sells just a manifold, a one piece cast iron manifold for $200 + 80 for delivery, at least to NJ where I am at it is $80. I have already replaced one and just received another one for a second car.
First car needed a headwork so pulling a turbo was not an issue, second will need a whole engine so again, pulling a turbo and replacing a manifold is not going to be a challenge.'
But regardless, whatever it takes, whatever it costs to pull the turbo from the car and swap the manifold, let that be 1k, 1.5k that is 8-10 fold less then dealer had quoted.